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Seasonal in Edinburgh, Scotland

Monday August 30, 2010

urbanangel.jpgDespite its deep-fry and haggis reputation, Scotland is a cornucopia of fresh ingredients from land and sea — and both restaurants and the public are increasingly embracing seasonal foods as a way to eat healthy. You'll have ample opportunity to explore both sides of Scottish cuisine during your stay at the Sheraton Grand Hotel & Spa, Edinburgh, but I'm going to focus on the healthy stuff here.

The best place to see the seasonal movement in action is at the Edinburgh Farmers' Market, which takes place on Saturdays in the shadows of Edinburgh Castle year-round. Get a look at the current crop of meats and produce, sample locally made cheeses and pick up a loaf of crusty bread to slather with fresh butter and preserves.

Or perhaps let Urban Angel do the cooking for you. This cafe, now with two locations, bases its menus on what's available locally and organically at the moment, delivering some fantastic breakfast and lunch dishes that don't break the bank.

Seasonality takes drinkable form at Demijohn , a "liquid deli" that turns fresh-picked local ingredients into wines, vinegars, liqueurs and other things, and allows customers to choose the bottle each comes in, from just a taste up to a year's supply. Elderflower vinegar made from flowers picked in late June is ready now, and the store is serving blackcurrant ice cream made with fresh fruit and blackcurrant gin.

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800px-Aberfeldy-Casks.jpgCombine two of life's finest indulgences - chocolate and whisky - in a very private tour near Edinburgh.

Taking one of Helen Fraser's Afternoon Tea Tours feels, as one tourist wrote, like "a long-lost friend showing me around her favorite places." The native Scot started her company in 2007 with the goal of doing just that - leading very small, very private tours (ideal for a solo traveler or couple) to some of Scotland's most charming and delightful spots. Her day tours range from the eponymous Afternoon Tea Tour to a Scottish Castles & Gardens Tour, but the Whisky & Chocolate Tour is tough to beat. Ever-so-convenient, Helen will pick you up at the Sheraton Grand Hotel & Spa, Edinburgh (and bring you back there as well), then take you to the heart of Highland Perthshire, where you'll visit Dewars World of Whisky. You'll tour the distillery and, of course, sample some Dewars 12, but your stop in Aberfeldy doesn't ignore everything outside Dewars' walls: Helen points out notable monuments, buildings, and places in history along the way to Grandtully, where you'll meet the award-winning Iain Burnett, known as the "Highland Chocolatier." There, you simply must try the truffles: Burnett, who trained under Belgian, Swiss, and French master chocolatiers, spent 3 years tinkering with his recipe, making more than 120 fine adjustments to arrive at his famed Velvet Truffles.

[image via Wikimedia Commons © Garrit]

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Deep Fried Wonders in Scotland

Thursday September 24, 2009

I think (and hope) most people realize the Scottish don't eat haggis all the time. But Scotland's reputation for deep-frying just about anything is well-earned. You can enjoy a variety of foods battered and deep-fried in Edinburgh, from the classic haddock to slices of pizza and Mars bars (where do you think the state fairs got the idea?). Get a taste of the local specialty when you stay at the Sheraton Grand Hotel & Spa.

I don't recommend just wandering into any old chip shop, though — the quality and temperature of the oil matter a lot, and many "chippies" half-fry fish in advance and finish them off when you order, which results in a soggy, greasy snack. One of the cleanest and most respected is L'Alba D'Oro, where the haddock is generously portioned and the chips are golden brown and delicious. Anstruther Fish Bar is an award-winning spot featuring responsibly caught fish and a beautiful view of the docks in Fife. Another favorite much closer in is The Tailend, which is run by Anstruther's former chef.

For a deep-fried pizza — or just a baked one — try L'Aquila Bianca. They also offer Ben & Jerry's if you've got a craving — fortunately, it isn't deep-fried.

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JupiterArtland.jpgAt the grand opening of Scotland's newest sculpture park, a fireworks display scattered moon dust across the terrain. A fitting commencement for a place called Jupiter Artland. Ten miles from the Jupiter Artland. Ten miles from the Sheraton Grand Hotel & Spa, Edinburgh, the 80-acre sculpture park is filled with magical works of art like "Firmament," a massive figure of steel bands that crouches against a blue sky like an intricate line drawing. Or "Over Here," a hand-knitted net that stretches across the forest resembling an oversized spiderweb. "Stone Coppice" is comprised of mysterious stones held within slender tree-trunks that lead the way to grassy stepped hillsides called "Life Mounds." Nearby, the white forms of five "Weeping Girls" take shape.

A storybook terrain filled with imaginative narratives and wondrous surprises, Jupiter Artland is situated on the grounds of the private estate Bonnington House. The works of contemporary artists like Anish Kapoor, Andy Goldsworthy, and the recently deceased Ian Hamilton Finlay rise up from the landscape's meadows and woodlands, each one constructed in careful regard to its specific topographical location. Guests are provided with a map that details the location of each work of art, but there's no set route through the grounds, and visitors are invited to simply wander at will. Open Friday through Sunday all summer long, Jupiter Artland is 30 minutes by car or bus from Edinburgh's city center. 

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burnsdinner2.jpgThis year marks the 250th birthday of Robert Burns, the Scottish poet famous for the song "Auld Lang Syne" and infamous for his "Address to a Haggis" — which forms the centerpiece of annual Burns Dinners across Scotland each January. And on such an auspicious anniversary, even more celebrations than usual are planned for the weekend of January 24th and 25th, with plenty near the Sheraton Grand Hotel & Spa, Edinburgh.

Haggis is, of course, a traditional Scottish dish consisting of a sheep's stomach (or, these days, just a casing) stuffed with a mix of sheep heart, liver and lungs, onion, oatmeal, suet and spices, which is stitched up and boiled for about three hours. It's increasingly popular in the UK thanks to its low cost, and both vegetarian and haute versions abound. Even if you're not keen on this unique dish, you're welcome to raise a glass of scotch in the bard's honor.

On the 24th, kick off the celebration at the Burns Belter, featuring musicians and dancers in a range of styles, food, drink and of course a Toast to the Haggis. Or, help Children 1st, a local charity, by attending the black tie Burns Reloaded party at the Corn Exchange.

On the 25th, the Whiski Bar will offer a three-course dinner and a dram of Talisker, while the Hard Rock Cafe offers a haggis burger with a side of Bowmore. Meanwhile, the Scotch Malt Whisky Society will hold several Burns-related events, including an "alternative traditional" Burns supper (I honestly don't know what that means, but they promise "surprises"!) and a "Brilliant Burns Ceilidh" to be served with a special single cask malt.

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It's almost time for Edinburgh Festival, the largest collection of arts festivals in the world. Every August, singers, musicians, comedians, magicians, filmmakers, photographers, scientists, librarians, and people who defy category gather in this ancient Scottish city to put on an amazingly diverse set of performances that's like no other. Fans of traditional classical music, opera, dance, and theater come in droves to the Edinburgh International Festival, which this year features the Budapest Festival Orchestra, the Estonian Philharmonic Chamber Choir, and a performance of Poe's The Tell-Tale Heart by Malthouse Melbourne. Also, included will be a Discover Kymaerica talk by Charles and Ray Eames' grandson, Eames Demetrios, who is currently chronicling his journey to Edinburgh on youtube. Other August festivals include the Edinburgh International Book Festival, the Edinburgh International Film Festival, and the Edinburgh Military Tattoo, but the party veers sharply toward the wild and weird when the Edinburgh Fringe gets going. Look out for stilt-walkers, shamans, fire-eaters, jugglers, and deejays playing eclectic electronic music to crowds of screaming fans. It's sensory overload in the best way. Guests at the Sheraton Grand Hotel & Spa, Edinburgh will no doubt find a performance or three to enjoy.

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