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Santiago's Museum of Precolombian Art

Tuesday December 30, 2008

Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino 200.jpgThe history of Central and South America is divided into two eras, the time before Spanish colonization, and the time since. Waves of Spanish and Portuguese settlers in the 16th and 17th centuries erased much of the native culture, but fortunately, enough survived for modern-day visitors to get a glimpse of what it was like before the arrival of Christopher Columbus. There's no better place to travel back to precolumbian times than the Museo Chileno del Arte de Precolombino in Santiago. Housed in what was once the Royal Customs Palace, the museum's exhibits are categorized by cultural region, from Mesoamerican (home of the Olmecs, Mayans, and Aztecs) to the Central and Southern Andes, where groups like the Moche and Chimu flourished. Of particular interest is the museum's Amazonian collection of pottery from the Maraojara culture, which lived on a group of islands at the mouth of the Amazon River. The bowls, urns, and vases have such intricate detailing, molding, and painting that it's truly astonishing what the artists were able to accomplish without the benefit of western innovations. Starwood has three properties in Santiago, including the nearby San Cristobal Tower, Santiago, a member of Starwood's Luxury Collection.

[image via welcometochile.com]

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The Buenos Aires football team known as Boca Juniors is one of the most storied franchises in all of sports history, with eighteen championships going back nearly a century. Its fans are as passionate as any in the world, showing fanatical devotion to their idols in blue and gold, a team that has brought so much joy - and occasional heartache - into their lives. If you're in town during football season, drop by a home game at Estadio Alberto J. Armando, where stars like Diego Maradona once electrified the crowds. But if the team is on the road, you can still have the Boca experience. The Museo De La Pasión Boquense (Passion of Boca Juniors Museum) houses a treasure trove of historical objects and memorabilia dedicated to the Boca Junior legacy, from jerseys and cleats to computer terminals where visitors can call up any stat from any player, ever in history. There's even a 360-degree video experience that puts you in the middle of the action. It's as intense as football gets. Starwood has five hotels in and around Buenos Aires, including the luxurious Park Tower, Buenos Aires.

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Both Argentina and Brazil maintain national parks surrounding Iguazu Falls - nearly a quarter of a million hectares of virgin rain forest, home to jaguars, monkeys, giant anteaters, and caymans. The park infrastructure is comparable to what you'd find in North America: a well-maintained and modern visitor's center (with information, restaurants, and gift shops), well-marked trails, an electric eco-train to ferry visitors between trails, and a spectacular system of elevated metal walkways designed to keep a million visitors a year from trampling the fragile rain forest.

These walkways are divided into three "circuits" all of which are well within the capability of visitors with reasonable mobility. The lower circuit is the most strenuous, mostly at the base of the falls, and takes guests to spectacular panoramas of the waterfalls and right into the mist of the cataracts. The upper circuit allows visitors to wander at the very upper edge of the falls - sometimes within a few feet of the water on one side of the path and a hundred meters above the booming falls on the other side. The third circuit, known as Garganta del Diablo, or the Devil's Throat, (see video) takes visitors to the very edge of the most spectacular waterfall in the park, where you can stand, drenched in mist and the thunderous sounds of 270 degrees of waterfalls surrounding you - absolutely mind-blowing. Remarkably, the Devil's Throat pathway is wheelchair accessible - we saw at least two disabled visitors being wheeled out to this astounding overlook.

Visitors with more time to spend can easily extend a visit by taking one of the many excursions offered - you can take a jeep ride through the jungle where you're more likely to spot some of the resident wildlife, or take a boat trip up to the very base of the waterfalls. Be aware, you'll get completely soaked, so make sure your camera is enclosed in a sealable plastic bag. There are even short helicopter rides available on the Brazilian side, but these are controversial, as the rotor noise has scared away many of the toucans and parrots that formerly inhabited the area. All are conveniently located near the Sheraton Iguazú Resort & Spa, the only hotel within the boundaries of the park and within sight of the falls.

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Iguazú Falls, an enormous complex of waterfalls on the Iguazu River near its confluence with the Parana River, lies amid the dense rain forest at the boundaries of Paraguay, Brazil, and Argentina. The falls are a 90 minute plane ride north from Buenos Aires, the closest large city. It's an amazing, spectacular, once-in-a-lifetime place.

Visitors to the area will find lots of lodging options in the nearby Brazilian city of Foz do Iguacu or in the Argentine town of Puerto Iguazú. However, if you've come this far to see the falls, you would do well to consider staying at the Sheraton Iguazú Resort & Spa, which is the only hotel located within the boundaries of the park and within sight of the falls. It is unquestionably the most desirable lodging option.

The park is located about midway between the Puerto Iguazú airport and the town itself. Transportation from town to the falls is available via public bus (for a few pesos) or taxi ($10-15 one way). Travel time between the airport and the park is about 20 minutes, and it's another 15-20 minutes from the park to Puerto Iguazú.

By general consensus, the Argentine side of the falls offers closer, more exciting views of the falls, while the Brazilian side provides a more panoramic overview of the entire area. US visitors who want to see the Brazilian side are going to need a visa, which currently costs $160 per person. Don't blame Brazil - this tariff is reciprocal and is based on what it costs a Brazilian citizen to visit the US. Although it used to be possible to sneak across for an hour or two without a visa, authorities have recently cracked down on this practice, and there are no more loopholes - if you want to get into Brazil, you'll need that $160 stamp in your passport.

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ClaudiaAdorno.jpgI get great pleasure out of local shopping when I travel internationally. Returning home, it's extremely satisfying seeing that pair of 1970s tea cups from Norway or that dishtowel from Switzerland in my kitchen. That's why a trip to the Argentine capital, a stop at the Buenos Aires Design Center is essential when you're visiting Buenos Aires. Located in the upscale neighborhood of Recoleta, just a half mile from the Park Tower, Buenos Aires, one of Starwood's Luxury Collection properties, it's a haven for native design and decor.

Dozens of stores provide the opportunity to purchase unique items by local Buenos Aires designers, including Claudia Adorno who offers an exceptional array of bamboo and seagrass bath accessories among her shop's assortment of fabulous home goods and tasty desserts. I also love her colorful bottle tops shaped like fish and frogs. Drol has some really sweet items for children's rooms like boxes to store Barbie dolls and toy soldiers, in pretty shades of pink and green. For gorgeous bedding nothing beats Home Collection. Shams and duvets come in styles to please all types of design lovers. When you're all shopped out, an open-air terrace is the perfect place to enjoy lunch. Great views of the neighborhood too!

[image via Claudia Adorno]

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Everybody knows that Buenos Aires is lots of fun for adults, with a seemingly endless choice of excellent restaurants, bars, and nightclubs, but there's plenty to keep the little ones happy as well. Families traveling with children should start at el Museo de los Niños - Abasto, an interactive museum for children where imagination is the only limit. Located in the trendy Abasto Shopping Center, the museum is designed to stimulate the minds of children between the ages of three and twelve with hands-on exhibits that let them try out various careers. Whether the kids are interested in a job in medicine, show business, journalism, or science and technology, they'll have a chance to try their hands at basic tasks and learn what it takes to become a professional in the field. There are also miniature recreations of Buenos Aires to help kids get their bearings in this chaotic and exciting city, including a section designed to resemble the city's water system with enormous water pipes for kids to walk through. Where was this stuff when I was little? The museum is convenient to several Starwood properties, including the nearby Sheraton Libertador Hotel.

[image via moniblog]

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On any given afternoon, a pair of tango dancers will most likely be entertaining a captivated group of spectators at Buenos Aires' Plaza Dorrego. But on Sundays, this lively square in the center of San Telmo, really dons a true festival atmosphere.

Unlike your typical weekend antiques market, the Plaza Dorrego Sunday Market surprises with authentic bits of Argentine culture that greet you everywhere you look. While perusing stalls of comical 1940s toys, and pearly antique broaches, don't be surprised if the sound of a Spanish guitar lures you away, for sure enough, just around the corner there's a duo of mesmerizing musicians completely wrapped up in the strains of their favorite tune. Then, just when you think you've found the perfect silver platter for Aunt Mildred's seventy-fifth birthday, the scent of freshly baked medialunas tempts you away. But there's certainly nothing wrong with sitting on a sunny curb and enjoying a native pastry while a pair of dashing dancers shows you more drama and passion rolled into one ten minute routine, than you've seen in the last five years. Later on, when you're snuggled up in your big comfy bed at the Park Tower, Buenos Aires, vow to tuck a little bit of that passion in amongst those market souvenirs home...

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unaltravolta.jpgMany people are surprised to learn that Argentina has a large Italian population, thanks to great waves of immigration in the early 20th century. The influence is everywhere, from the architecture to the music to the food — of course, the food. Plenty of pasta and pizza and, most importantly, gelato. There are hundreds of heladerías, or ice cream parlors, across the country, serving a dizzying array of flavors. While staying at the Park Tower, Buenos Aires, one of the top places to try is Un Altra Volta. Its beautifully designed shops offer "gelato from the gods," such as seven varieties of the popular dulce de leche, as well as such options as cappuccino caramel, banana split, tropical peach and chocolate with brownie chunks. Or find an outpost of heladería Chungo, one of the more colorfully named chains in the city, or the aptly named Freddo for equally tasty options.

For a more old-school option, travel to the Palermo Viejo neighborhood for a visit to Scannapieco, operated since 1938 by the same family. Try the bittersweet chocolate with candied orange peel or the lemon champagne.And should gelato pangs crop up while you're cozy in your room, don't worry, Chungo happily delivers.

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SPG Member Corner - Stephen Chien

Tuesday August 12, 2008

lacabana2.jpgAfter the tango, Argentina is best known for its excellent beef. Buenos Aires faces the Atlantic Ocean, at the eastern edge of grassy plains known as pampas that stretch hundreds of miles inland. The pampas are ideal for raising cattle, and their abundance means that almost all cattle in Argentina are free-range and, therefore, delicious.

We had dinner at La Cabaña, a restaurant whose fine steaks are unfortunately offset by its extremely high, tourist-oriented prices. But the exchange rate crashed from one peso per dollar to three pesos per dollar during the currency crisis, so you hardly ever need to pay more than $5 to $10 US dollars for a good steak dinner. Without a doubt, Buenos Aires is definitely a great choice for travelers who want to live and eat well on a budget.

Another option is Desnivel, a typical Buenos Aires parrilla (grill) in the charming San Telmo neighborhood. We feasted here the next day on flavorful chorizo sausage, an unusually good tortilla espanola (Spanish omelette), tender porterhouse steak, and ribs, plus salad, beer and soda, for well less than $10 per person.

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SPG Member Corner - Stephen Chien

Monday July 28, 2008

Buenos Aires is often called the "Paris of South America," and lives up to that billing. 19th century European-style buildings lined both sides of Avenida de Mayo and other major streets, and even the people themselves, descended mostly from Italian and Spanish immigrants, are more reminiscent of Europe than South America. Café Tortoni, where we stopped for lunch, fit this mold with its dark wood and tall columns, and an art nouveau influence on the artwork and lamps.

Buenos Aires, like Paris, is also a city of neighborhoods, and better yet, most of them are walkable and not far from downtown. San Telmo was one of our favorites. Away from the hustle of downtown, San Telmo retains a more traditional feel with its cobblestone streets and two- or three-story European-style buildings, most with balconies providing perches for potted plants enjoying the cloudless, sunny day.

Every Sunday, San Telmo's central Plaza Dorrego hosts the Feria de San Telmo, a popular flea market. Streets are closed to cars, and are taken over by juice vendors, human statues and musicians entertaining the steady stream of visitors. In Plaza Dorrego itself are dozens of booths where merchants sell antiques and trinkets like old porcelain, jewelry and silverware -- and probably a good bit of junk as well.

The elegant Recoleta neighborhood houses Buenos Aires' elite. Indeed, looking at some of the stately facades and exclusive retailers, you could be forgiven for thinking you were actually in Paris.

Starwood has five hotels in Buenos Aires, including the Park Tower, a Luxury Collection Hotel.

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