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Walk the Old Road Out of Rome

Monday January 25, 2010

itinerarrio02.jpgAll roads lead to Rome, but one of the first to do so was the Appian Way. This ancient highway connected Rome with Apulia in southeast Italy, and it has been traveled by merchants, peasants, holy men, nobles, and soldiers since its creation in 312 B.C. Of course, Italy now has a modern highway system, but much of the Appian Way is still intact, giving visitors a unique opportunity to literally step back in time. On Sundays, no cars are allowed on the Appia Antica (the oldest portion of the road) in Rome, so take advantage of the serenity to walk in the footsteps of countless ancient Romans. Begin with a visit to Parco Regionale Dell'Appia Antica, a national park that encompasses the southern end of the road. Then, armed with a bottle of water, perhaps some sunscreen, and a picnic lunch, start walking. The park's website has plenty of information about the historic buildings you'll be passing, such as the Church of Domine Quo Vadis - where St. Peter is said to have met Jesus during his flight from Rome - and the Tomb of Cecilia Metella, daughter of the consul Quintus Caecilius Metellus Creticus and a daughter-in-law of the wealthiest great tenant of Rome. But the greatest pleasure is simply strolling along a quiet, tree-lined section of road and imagining that you've been transported back to the time of Caesar. It's a unique experience that you can only have in Italy. Starwood has hotels throughout Rome, including the St. Regis Grand Hotel, Rome.

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Romaeuropa.jpgFrom now through December 2, 2009, it will be all but impossible not to experience cutting edge art in Rome. That's because the Romaeuropa Festival 2009 is in full swing, bringing the latest theater, dance, and contemporary art to venues throughout this ancient city. One of the biggest festivals of its kind in the world, Romaeuropa boasts more than 1,150 shows by 6,000 artists from over 40 countries, so there's a pretty good chance you'll find something you like. Among this year's highlights are the Mansaku-no-kai Kyogen Company, which performs Kyogen, one of four classical Japanese theatrical forms. Their intricate costumes and carefully choreographed movements praise human nature and inject plenty of levity into the drama. Classical music aficionados will appreciate L'Orchestra di Piazza Vittorio, a hip young orchestra that's renowned for its rendition of Mozart's The Magic Flute. The dance program is similarly robust, with appearances by classically trained Japanese dancer and choreographer Saburo Teshigawara and the elegant ballet of Myriam Gourfink, who cites the respiratory techniques of yoga as the source of her endeavors. The theme of this year's festival is 72 Days of Cultural Pulsations, and if every performance is as electric as these promise to be, the city will keep buzzing for weeks afterward. Starwood has hotels throughout Rome, including the St. Regis Grand Hotel, Rome.

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The great city of Rome has provided a backdrop to some of the most famous moments in cinema history, from screen siren Anita Ekberg's famous dance in the Trevi Fountain in La Dolce Vita to Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn's comical adventures in Roman Holiday. This fall, it will be the setting for one of the biggest film festivals in the world. The International Rome Film Festival is still relatively new to the scene, celebrating its fourth anniversary this October 15-23, 2009, but in its short lifetime it has quickly become one of the most influential festivals on the circuit, drawing scores of filmmakers, actors, and cineastes to this historic city. Organizers are planning a mix of "popular vocation and quality culture," with films, retrospectives, meetings, and plenty of high-wattage star power. A total of 18 films will be screened - twelve in competition and six out of competition - in venues throughout Rome, including the Renzo Piano-designed Auditorium Parco della Musica, a cutting-edge performance space with pitch-perfect acoustics. More than a few cinema legends will be on hand giving talks and participating in round table discussions, including David Cronenberg, Bernardo Bertolucci, Olivier Assayas, Peter Greenaway, Francis Ford Coppola, Martin Scorsese, Sean Connery, Viggo Mortensen, Al Pacino, and Sophia Loren. When Sophia Loren attends a film festival in Rome, you know it's a big deal. For a complete schedule of films and other events, visit the festival website. Guests at the St. Regis Grand, Rome, or any of Starwood's Rome properties might appreciate this exciting celebration of cinema.

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Rome_Theater.jpgThe sidewalks and squares of Rome will become the world's largest stage this September as a unique outdoor festival brings free live theater to some of the city's most beautiful public spaces. The International Urban Theater Festival (September 9-13) is designed to expose audiences to a mix of traditional and experimental performances, with emerging and established playwrights, actors, and directors presenting works of comedy, tragedy, and everything in between at impromptu venues throughout the city. Presented by the Abraxa Theater Company, performances will break out anywhere, from the lovely paths and gardens of the Giardino degli Aranci to the bustling streets of the business district, and a blending of the actors and audience is commonplace. Watch out for impromptu guerrilla performances, which organizers feel are necessary to achieve the "carnivalization" of the city. Before long, the line between drama and real life may disappear entirely. Starwood has six hotels in Rome, including the luxurious St. Regis Grand Hotel, Rome.

[image via Abraxa]

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Every Roman has an opinion of the Vittorio Emanuele II Monument, and most of them are, shall we say, unfavorable. Its detractors find it too large and ostentatious, and it has been described as resembling false teeth, a typewriter, and a wedding cake. But love it or not, it's here to stay, and visitors can still find plenty of beauty amid its aesthetic misfires. Built in the early 20th century to honor a unified Italy's first king, it contains a tomb of the unknown soldier, as well as a museum of Italian reunification. But the most popular part of it is its roof deck, which recently got a whole lot easier to visit. The new Rome from the Sky elevator takes visitors on a thrilling ride to the top of the monument, where a sweeping panorama of Rome and its suburbs spreads out in all directions. Even those who claim to dislike the monument love the view from up top, because the one thing you can't see from up there is the monument itself. Guests at the Hotel Eden or any of Starwood's Rome properties can decide for themselves how the monument stacks up against the city's ancient gems.

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Just 30 kilometers from Rome is the hill town of Nemi, one of the most picturesque and unspoiled comunes in all of Italy. A peaceful counterpoint to the hustle and bustle of Rome, Nemi has two major claims to history. Its namesake lake was the focus of the Cult of Diana, who believed it served as a "looking glass" for the goddess of hunting and wilderness. Later, the notorious emperor Caligula built several opulent barges that he used on the lake, the remnants of which remain today. But if that's not enough to justify a visit to this charming town, how about its annual Strawberry Festival? Every May and June, it draws visitors from all over the country to sample its sweet local strawberries at the Sagra delle Fragola. The small, wild strawberries grow abundantly in the rich soil of the volcanic crater, and during the festival, local restaurants use the mild, balanced berries in recipes that range from sorbet to fruit salad to the always popular strawberry liqueur. Sounds like a sweet way to absorb ancient Roman history. Nemi is an easy day trip for guests at the St. Regis Grand Hotel, Rome, or any of Starwood's Rome properties.

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Rome can get expensive if you're not careful, so we've found a few inexpensive, but very tasty options to help maximize your budget during your stay at the Hotel Eden.

Pizzerias are everywhere (of course), and often offer more on their menus than just pies. L'Isola della Pizza near the Vatican Metro stop is known for its antipasti, while Panattoni, aka "Ai Marmi" or "l'obitorio" because of its long marble-topped tables, is one of the best for Roman style pizza.

Tapas isn't a typical Roman thing, but small plate dining is budget-friendly and perfectly suited to trying lots of phenomenal Italian ingredients. Primo in the Pigneto district does it nicely, with a wide variety of dishes in a sleek space. Be sure to order off the specials list, peruse the ample wine list and save room for a chocolate tartufo for dessert.

Or skip dessert and head to one of the many gelato shops that do the city. Il Gelato di San Crispino is considered by many to be the best, but anywhere with the word artigianale ("homemade") on the sign is likely to hit the spot.

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Starpick the Westin Excelsior, Rome

Tuesday February 24, 2009

Westin Excelsior Rome Sign 200.jpgThe Via Vittorio Veneto is one of the most beautiful and exclusive streets in all of Rome, having been immortalized in Federico Fellini's 1960 film La Dolce Vita. Lined with upscale boutiques, galleries, and restaurants, it's the epitome of Italian high society, and a stroll along its tree-lined sidewalks is a feast for the senses. Via Veneto is also home to the Westin Excelsior, Rome, which happens to be one of this week's participating Starpicks properties. Travelers can enjoy last-minute rates of at least 20% off regular rates for stays during the next two weekends, making it easier than ever to check into one of Rome's most exquisite hotels. Since 1906, the hotel has welcomed celebrities, statesmen, and artists to the Eternal City, providing luxurious accommodations and unsurpassed service within walking distance of Rome's greatest attractions. Dance across the Spanish Steps, make a wish at the Trevi Fountain, or splurge on a new outfit at one of the world's most renowned shops. When it's time for a meal, head to the hotel's Restaurant Doney, where chef James Foglieni serves a menu of light Mediterranean classics like pumpkin ravioli with shrimp sauce and Catalan lobster. As you sip a glass of Chianti and reflect on your Roman holiday, you can begin to dream up your next great Starpicks adventure.

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Palazzo Massimo.jpgYou could visit Rome a hundred times and still not see it all. The sheer volume of fine art and architecture is staggering, which makes it all the more pleasurable to get lost in a museum and gaze for hours and the masterpieces of Roman history. But you've got to start somewhere, and one of the best places to embark on a discovery of Roman art is the Palazzo Massimo. One of the museums of the National Museum of Rome, the Palazzo Massimo houses some of the finest art and artifacts of the ancient world. Fans of sculpture will appreciate works from the late Roman republic and early imperial period, such as Via Labicana Augustus, which depicts the Roman emperor Augustus (63 B.C. - 14 A.D.), and the popular Tivoli General, whose anguished visage personifies the cost of war. A variety of frescoes and mosaics illustrate what life was like 2,000 years ago, with views of verdant gardens with flowers and pomegranate trees. Perhaps most impressive is a section dedicated to coins (pictured), showing the evolution of currency throughout the empire. Since this year is the museum's 10th anniversary as a separate institution, it's celebrating with a special show featuring the Portonaccio sarcophagus, one of the finest existing pieces of second century Roman sculpture in the world. Of course, it's just one of many masterpieces in this enchanting city waiting to be rediscovered. Starwood has six properties in Rome, including the nearby St. Regis Grand Hotel, Rome.

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Rome's Ancient Seaport

Wednesday December 31, 2008

There's no shortage of ancient ruins in Rome, but most seasoned travelers have done their time at the Colosseum and Pantheon. Those willing to venture beyond the city center can encounter some of the best-preserved ruins in all of the former Roman Empire at the Ostia Antica, a seaport town that reached a peak of 75,000 residents nearly two thousand years ago. Ironically, ancient Rome's harbor city is three kilometers from the sea. For centuries it was situated at the mouth of the Tigris River, but so much silt accumulated over the years that dredging was futile and it became landlocked. But deep water or not, Ostia Antica stands today as one of the best examples of a mid-sized Roman port town found anywhere. Its colorful frescoes, vast amphitheaters, public baths (with amazingly advanced plumbing), and rows of warehouses attest to the industrious nature of Romans throughout the ages. Ostia Antica is a short train or taxi ride from Starwood's Rome properties, including the Westin Excelsior, Rome.

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