Historic Dining Near the Kremlin

Monday June 9, 2008

red_square.jpgRussian food has a bit of a reputation for austerity thanks to Communism — all borscht and potatoes — but historically Russia's cuisine was as rich and sophisticated as the French it often emulated. In Moscow, Le Royal Méridien National's location directly across from the Kremlin places you in proximity to a wealth of excellent food — often in very theatrical settings.

Start with a trip to Cafe Pushkin. Considered the one of the best restaurants in the city, the quality (and price) of the food increases as you rise through its floors, from the 24-hour cafe at street level to the more formal "Library Room" on the second to the balcony and summer terrace on the third.

If you like the Library at Cafe Pushkin, you'll love Khlestakov Traktir. Its owners chanced upon the preserved set and props from a film based on Nikolai Gogol's play The Inspector General, and used it to replicate an old Russian tavern. Even the menu items are inspired by the book, served by staff in actual costumes from the film. The height of kitsch, but the food still stands out.

For even more history, 1 Red Square in the State Historical Museum, is a must-see. The restaurant features a menu of dishes from throughout Russia's history, and periodic historical dinners recreate a full meal based on documents from the museum's archives.

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