Franco-American in St. Louis

Savor

Friday June 27, 2008

St. Louis was settled by the French, so it seems natural that there be plenty of French influences over the dining scene. Particularly strong are restaurants which combine French with contemporary American, such as Sidney Street Cafe, where the filet bearnaise is stuffed with lobster and langostino and the braised short ribs melt in your mouth. Start with the savory blue cheese tartlets.

Chez Léon takes a more traditional bistro route, with classics like steak frites and bouillebaise sharing the menu with dishes built around seasonal ingredients. The $38 three-course prix-fixe option offers the best bang for your buck.

Franco, a short cab ride from the Sheraton St. Louis City Center, caused a stir when it opened last year with its contemporary take on French bistro fare. My friend Brad recommends asking bartender Troy for a Nico Sidecar or his off-menu Straight Up Goodness.

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