It's hard to conceive of today, but just 20 years ago, Beijing was awash in bicycles, with people by the thousands pedaling through the streets and alleyways of this bustling city. Traffic jams were common, as masses of the single-speed, black-and-white bicycles would bottleneck at intersections and urban centers. While many of the roadways today now belong to the automobile, it is still possible to have the traditional Beijing bicycle experience, if you know where to go. First of all, unless you brought your own bicycle to Beijing, you'll need some wheels, so drop by a bike shop such as Bird of Freedom on historic Qianmen Dajie, where you'll get set up with a handsome road bike or cruiser. Ask the owner for a good route, or visit parks like Xiangshan (Fragrant Hill) or YuYuanTan (Jade Lake) Park. Alternatively, you can hook up with an outfit like Bike Beijing, which offers bike rentals and expert-led biking tours with names like the Olympic Beijing Bike Tour, the Imperial Bike Tour, and the Hutong Bike Tour, which takes riders through the city's traditional narrow streets and alleys. It's a great way to experience the Beijing of yesteryear. And if your body is sore after a long ride, just have a wander over to the Heavenly Spa within the Westin Beijing Financial Street.